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The Odyssey 2019: Day 10 – Part 3

Posted by alexgreyauthor on 16 September, 2019

Sandbank by RAF No. 4 to the Nene

Convoy at anchor…

I really enjoyed our time on the beach, but all too quickly the tide turned and we had to head back to sea. This proved to be a little more awkward than we expected as we reversed off the sand but then got swung around in the turn and managed to ground ourselves. With the tide coming in, we would have got off eventually, but we had an uncomfortable few minutes jiggling ourselves off the sand. Although there was too much water to allow us to stay on the rapidly disappearing beach, there wasn’t enough for us to set off towards the Nene so we spent an hour at anchor not far from RAF No 4. It was a good opportunity to get some hot food on the go and watch the westering sun, but bobbing around in a flat-bottomed boat on the incoming tide will never be a particularly pleasant experience. It was a good test of the convoys’ anchors (especially ours, which was new and had been the subject of much research!). Sailors will laugh, but anchoring is a novel experience for us and at first we were worried that the anchor wouldn’t hold, then we were afraid that it wouldn’t come back up, then, when it came up easily, we were a bit amazed that we’d been held so steady! A few boats had tricky anchors, so getting the convoy away took a little while, but we were soon off.

The convoy headed off using local buoys and landmarks all as directed by Pilot Daryl. Now he just looks round, uses no posh electronics, I guess he checks which duck is where, gets the seals to tell if the channel has shifted, holds up a finger, sniffs the air and says go that way! Best of all he gets on the radio and says point to the right (or left) as you will get pulled across by the wind or tide. It is a remarkable process as we had to skirt round various sand banks whilst tide and wind took us in all sorts of random directions, for example at one point, Daryl told us to point our boats at a grain silo in Kings Lynn yet we actually drove down a heading 30 odd degrees away from where we were pointing towards a doughnut shaped artificial island.

This is the course we followed:

As we turned towards the narrow channel approaching the Nene, we were joined by the local pilot boat. The sun was setting fast as we headed up the Nene through Sutton Bridge and it was full dark by the time we arrived in Wisbech. However, because the convoy had been well-briefed, we all knew where and when to turn, and in what order – this enabled us all to reverse onto the mooring pontoon in Wisbech Yacht Harbour in good order. Andrew Phasey had equipped the convoy with bottles of fizz and we had an impromptu party on the pontoon (the convoy was strictly tee-total during the crossing!) to celebrate a truly epic day’s cruising.

From Richard: A few hints if only so I remember, forgot this on our second trip so a record here:

  • Coming into Wisbech the tide is barrelling along but you hardly feel it in the boat.
  • Hit reverse before you turn, it makes the turn so much easier plus you will probably be in a convoy and find you are running out of room which makes everything awkward, that bit of reverse makes life much easier.
  • Once you have turned don’t try to steer in reverse, the flow is so fast that a small tweak works, anything more significant does not!
  • Steer by ferry gliding, a bit of forward gear is remarkable but you have to remember to do it!

Photoblog:

The westering sun – by now we were watching the tide and the time…

A closer view of the “doughnut” island – it was a handy navigation feature

The pilot boat approaching – it did slow down when it got close πŸ™‚

I don’t think we’ll end up on as a pilot’s cautionary tale – the convoy was well-led and very well-behaved!

Magical πŸ™‚

The entrance to the Nene estuary is very narrow

The narrow waters meant that we got a great view of the seals – I have never seen so many in my life and I was thrilled πŸ™‚

On the River Nene – it’s pretty straight and although it’s narrow by comparison to where we’ve been, there was plenty of room for our boats to shuffle into our mooring configuration.

The steaming lights have to be set high in order to comply with navigation rules – I loved how our intrepid narrowboats looked like tall ships in the dim dusk light πŸ™‚

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The Odyssey 2019: Day 10 (Part 2)

Posted by alexgreyauthor on 29 August, 2019

From sea to sandbank

In the last post, I mentioned “RAF No. 4” – this was an important marker as it pointed the way to the sandbank where the convoy would beach for an hour or so while the tide turned.

Again, I’ll let the photos tell the story, but I have to say that the sandbank was quite magical – quiet and pristine with fine, white sand and clear waters. I enjoyed walking along the beach collecting seashells and paddling in the rippling wavelets. Some crews had a swim, others sat and chatted – I could have stayed there for hours but the incoming tide son let us know that it was time to move…

Photoblog:

RAF No. 4 – it’s a tall item and though it looks close here, it took a surprising amount of time to get to the sandbank…

I believe this is a doughnut shaped man-made island- it has a reservoir in the centre.

By this time we’d been at sea for several hours and the land is starting to look unreal πŸ™‚

I can’t remember what this is!

RAF No. 4 – at this point you realise how big it is and why it’s a really good idea not to bump into it!

Another useful landmark – one to avoid!

The seals were astonished to see so many narrowboats – I was a bit sorry to disturb them as they’d been basking on the sandbank

Our private beach – for an hour…

So pleased that we were able to get aerial photos – the view is spectacular and gives a real sense of scale πŸ™‚

 

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The Odyssey 2019: Day 10 (Part 1)

Posted by alexgreyauthor on 27 August, 2019

Boston and out to sea

I’ll split our Wash adventure over several posts because we have so many photos, and it was a great experience – not to be rushed!

Saturday 22nd June

We came back to the boat on Thursday feeling a bit more optimistic than when we left. We had a smooth trip up by train and then enjoyed the convivial atmosphere on the visitor pontoon. The rain had finally slackened off and it look hopeful for our Wash crossing on Saturday. It was good to have a day in hand to get the boat ready and generally chill out.

Leaving the CRT visitor moorings in Boston – they were a fine safe haven while the Witham was in flood.

For a change, the tide on Saturday favoured a late-morning departure – although there’s something magical about dawn cruising, I do love a lie-in! The convoy assembled at the lock in our assigned positions to wait for the “level” – we’d have a short window when the tide and river levels matched and we would all be able to cruise through both open gates. There would be no time to mess around once the lock gates opened. However, the tide kept us waiting, it was over half an hour late, causing us a little bit of anxiety about arriving at Wisbech after dark. It was such a lovely day, it was Midsummer, we were all equipped with steaming lights, we stopped fretting!

There I was thinking that this was our last view of the Boston Stump, little realising that it’s visible for miles – from land and sea πŸ™‚

I think I’ll let the photos and videos tell the tale now – I’m not sure that there’s any narrative that would cover the thrill of being at sea with friends in perfect conditions. We were mid-convoy – nb Doris Katia, our lead boat, was carrying Darryl, our pilot, while we carrying his “assistant”, Patrick, a retired lifeboat coxwain with years of experience in these waters; we were also equipped with AIS, online charts and all the printed charts from the briefing, so there was little chance of getting lost.

 

 

 

Photoblog:

The convoy assembled in good order – imagine those mooring bollards under water and covering half the roadway – that’s how high the flood water rose when the tidal sluices were closed!

Going through on the level – no time to waste…

In the shadow of the Stump – it’s a shame it was shrouded in scaffolding.

There were a lot of gongoozlers – the convoy was part of the weekend’s entertainment πŸ™‚

More gongoozlers πŸ™‚

The tidal channel through Boston is narrow and has a few obstructions to look out for…

Although “obstructions” are easy to see, navigating through them can be tricky when the river/drain sluices are creating currents with the tide, though we had a smooth passage.

This ricketty railway swing bridge is, astonishingly still in use. The channel (on the right) is well signposted, but it’s worth watching out for that cable on the left – it would make a right mess of a narrowboat and its crew!

I can’t imagine this swingbridge in action, with a laden freight train passing over it!

Leaving the Port of Boston and its fishing fleet behind…

Now it feels like an estuary as we say goodbye to Boston

Now we’re at sea! In all fairness, the convoy skips from estuary to estuary, and were never very far from shore….

Although it is easy to play “follow my leader” in convoy, each boat has to be aware of where you are and be mindful of the navigation buoys. – binoculars are essential!

There are some fearsome sandbanks to be avoided, but I was so tempted to get a little closer to see the seals – I’ve never seen so many in my life πŸ™‚

Blue!

Boats in the blue – ahead…

Boats in the blue – behind…

Patrick, our cheery mid-convoy pilot, he was a great character πŸ™‚

The Stump, visible again as we wended our way through the navigable channels towards the sandbank where we would sit out the tide.

RAF Number 4 – the sighting of this distinctive buoy is where I’ll leave this first edition….

 

 

 

 

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The Odyssey 2019: Day 9-ish

Posted by alexgreyauthor on 26 August, 2019

Boston

Thursday 13th June

 

 

I was really looking forward to our holiday on board and to the convoy’s Wash crossing at the weekend. But we had an anxious week as the rain became biblical and the rivers became unnavigable – first the Soar, then the Trent, the Witham and finally the Nene.

Boston visitor moorings in a rare gap between showers πŸ™‚

By this time, all of the other members of the convoy had rushed to beat the floodwaters and were moored in Boston. Nb Coracle was brested up to Indigo Dream in the marina and we were glad of it. They had been on board all week minding our lines. When we moored up on Monday, we tied the back rope to a mooring cleat on the fixed pontoon, nice and level for stepping from the boat; the bow line was tied round a tall pole. After the first night, our neighbour slackened the aft line, then tied the back rope to the next level, then to a tall post; the front line neared the top of the post and had to be moved to a cleat on the high bank. They watched anxiously as the levels shifted up/down by five feet as the EA tried desperately to control the floodwater coming down the Witham.

Here’s how it worked:

  • High tide – sluices closed – fresh water coming downstream has nowhere to go so the river level rises by several feet; on Thursday, this meant that we needed a gangplank to get off the mooring; over the weekend, the banks were completely submerged, stranding the boats. The flow stops and the river is calm (flat water).
  • Medium/Low tide – sluices open – fresh water is now being discharged onto the tideway; flow in the river becomes dangerously fast but the water level drops by several feet.

And looking upstream…

We had to work on the Tuesday and Wednesday, but we were getting increasingly anxious about the boat. We had a typically convoluted plan for Thursday – Richard would get the train up to the boat and I would follow later after I had dropped the greyhounds off – they were going to stay with Archie and the rest of the Beanz in Suffolk while we crossed the Wash. There was little benefit in having a car in Boston if the Wash crossing went ahead, so I parked up in March train station, not far from where we hoped to end our holiday. Although the drive to March was immensely slow, the train connections to Boston worked well. Nonetheless, it was past 5pm by the time I arrived and the rain was still pelting down.

Water levels were still quite high when I arrived so the pontoon was submerged; this meant creeping across our brand new combination gangplank/ladder which was solidly anchored to shore by a bag of coal! An hour or so later, the river level had dropped and we could step out onto the pontoon. We set out for the pub but then disaster – I was stomping along the grassy bank in my sturdy walking boots when I thought it might be less slippery to walk on the timber pontoon – my mistake. I slipped and fell hard onto my shoulder, the one that I’d broken at the Crick Boat show back in 2006. It hurt like hell, but I didn’t think it was broken so we carried on to the pub.

Although it was lovely to meet up with our boating friends, many of whom we hadn’t seen since our last convoy in 2015, there was an air of gloom. It was highly unlikely that we would cross the Wash on Saturday and it seemed that it might be a week before we got a fair weather window for the crossing. Nonetheless, we all agreed to attend the official briefing (a great strength of St Pancras Cruising Club convoys) the following night and make a go/no go decision at the crack of dawn on Saturday.

We wended our way back to the boat, consoling ourselves that at least “steak night” in the pub had provided a decent dinner at a reasonable price.

Friday 14th June

When you can’t see a silver lining, you can always rely on a rainbow πŸ™‚

We had a pretty bad night’s sleep on the moorings – high tide was at 3am, so we were up and checking the lines as the river level rose and overtopped the bank. We weren’t the only ones to be worried – some convoy boats were moored on centre lines to short fixed pontoons – this meant that they heeled over when the levels rose and their centres needed to be loosened or cut. The spirit of the convoy was great and everyone looked out for each other.

However, the priority at the next flat water would be to move the boats moored in the marina onto the public CRT moorings – floating pontoons which would be much safer. But my first job of the day was to catch a cab to A & E at Boston Pilgrim hospital to have my shoulder checked out. Several hours later, an x-ray had confirmed that I had not broken any bones but they suspected severe soft tissue damage and immobilized my arm in an old-fashioned triangular bandage sling. I was feeling very sorry for myself when I got back to the boat and was very anxious about getting on and off the boat via a gangplank or a slippery pontoon with only one arm for balance.

Luckily, Simon from nb. Scholar Gypsy had been busy with his tape measure and had written a mooring plan which would enable the whole convoy to move onto the CRT’s floating pontoons. This involved breasting up with three boats between each pair of short, but floating, pontoons, which worked perfectly. As soon as the sluices were closed and we reached flat water, all the convoy boats in the marina moved swiftly to the pontoon. It was such a relief to be on a safe mooring, then, to our delight, it actually stopped raining for a few hours!

Our leader, Andrew Phasey from nb Doris Katia, hadΒ  arranged for the crews to congregate for a safety briefing and supper at the riverside Boston Cafe. A lot of work goes into these briefings with detailed information about convoy communication as well as charts and a presentation from Darryl, our pilot, with the key navigation hazards.

The Boston Cafe did us proud on the food – they’d prepared a delicious middle-eastern feast – the dessert (baked peaches with greek yogurt, honey and toasted nuts) was particularly luscious!

We didn’t stay out late as we needed to be awake early to check the go/no go message – although conditions did not look favourable for our crossing, the decision was left to the last minute just in case the weather suddenly improved overnight.

Saturday 15th June

We got the “No Go” message at 6.30amΒ  – a combination of factors including the rivers Witham and Nene being closed to navigation and predicted force 5 winds on the Wash meant that our passage was scuppered on many different levels. We had a lie-in!

We knew that Andrew and Darryl were busy perusing the weather forecast for the rest of the week – at first we thought we might get across the Wash on Tuesday, but a mid-week crossing meant that many boat crews couldn’t come. The crossing was postponed to the following Friday.

We had booked the entire week off but we decided to head for home on Sunday – Richard could go in to work for 3 days and save his holidays. I would have done the same, but my shoulder was so painful that I wouldn’t have been able to work; however I could book some time with a physiotherapist and start my recovery.

The weather improved in the afternoon, so Richard practiced flying his drone in anticipation of getting some aerial shots of the convoy on the Wash. There was some adverse comment about the drone so after that it seemed best to limit flights.

Encouraged by the almost blue skies, we had a mooch around Boston on Saturday evening, but getting caught in an apocalyptic thunderstorm and getting drenched while looking for a place to eat put the tin lid on the weekend! We ended up taking shelter in the Church Keys restaurant and wine bar in the shadow of the Stump (not to be confused with the Church restaurant round the corner). The service was delightful and the meal was enormous, so that lifted our spirits. It’s worth noting that they stop serving food at 8pm, though the wine bar stays open until 1am.

Sunday 16th June

We weren’t the only boat crews to “abandon ship” today – we joined a little group of boaters on the train, having cleared the fridge of a week’s food (a shame to waste it, but we didn’t have shore power and every other boat had a full fridge!). The CRT moorings do have a water point (now under flood water when the sluices were closed!) and useful rubbish bins.

It really did feel like “one of those” weekends – the trip from Boston to Grantham was fine, but our next train to London was jam-packed (standing room only) and soon after we boarded it actually broke down and we were on stop for ages before it limped in to Peterborough where we had an unexpected change.

It all took ages and by the time I got home I was suffering from a major sense of humour failure – some holiday this was proving to be 😦

 

 

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The Odyssey 2019: Day 8

Posted by alexgreyauthor on 26 August, 2019

Southrey to Boston

Monday 8th June

We’re gonna need a bigger brolly…

We had a very peaceful night on the mooring, but Alex woke me up at 5am with an urgent need. Luckily, since the days of Ty, who was too scared to wee during the day, I sleep in my clothes, so it didn’t take me long to get out with the hounds. So close to midsummer, it was already light and although thick cloud had moved in overnight, the promised rain hadn’t arrived. I had hoped for a quick in and out, but poor Alex had the dire-rear – he’s such a clean dog he gets very distressed and panicked over finding a place in long grass where he couldn’t be seen – this took some time!

By the time I got back to the boat, I was wide awake and gave some thought to setting out and trying to outrun the rain. In hindsight, this would have been a good idea, but I’ve never been a morning person and went back to bed! I slept so deeply after that, I didn’t notice the boat behind us moving to the pontoon across the river.

Alex needed to go out again a few hours later – that time we actually got up and prepared to move. The heavens opened just as we cast off and that was that – it rained all day long, varying in intensity from bucketing to biblical – lesser torrents were not available!

We had installed a new cissy boater gadget in anticipation of the forecast rain – an umbrella holder which slots onto the tiller. We unearthed an umbrella and although the placement wasn’t idea, it did go some way to keeping the rain off our faces.

Richard took the first shift while I stayed indoors with the dogs – there is never any likelhood of their getting wet! I was a bit worried about Alex being unwell as the river banks are steep and lush, with little prospect of mooring. Luckily he wasn’t too bad, and it was easy to fit in stops at the frequent mooring pontoons along the river. We passed the moorings at Kirkstead and were very g;ad that we hadn’t pressed on last night – they were jam-packed!

Hurrah, the Boston Stump – it’s visible for miles so we weren’t quite as close to the end of our rainy day’s cruising as I’d hoped.

It was a miserable morning’s cruise – it really wasn’t far to Boston, but we suffered a sense of humour failure as the hours dragged on. The Witham is impossibly straight and is vibrant with plant and bird life, but the weather made it impossible to enjoy them. After a couple of hours on the helm, Richard came in to dry off and I took the helm for the next shift.

The Boston Stump was a welcome sight, but the flatness of the landscape plays tricks with your eyes, and it was far longer from first sighting to mooring up at the Boston Gateway Marina.

We’d booked a mooring at Boston Gateway because we were afraid that the public CRT moorings would be full. We also made an assumption that the marina would be safer! We’d been allocated an online mooring which made it relatively easy to offload the greyhounds. We got the boat packed up, but we were not carrying much home as we planned to be back on Thursday – the first day of our almost fortnight holiday. Richard called a cab from the excellent Acorn Cab Company, with the intention of collecting his car from Newark and coming back for us. But he discovered that the taxi driver was willing to take dogs so we all piled in. It was just as well, the rain was incessant and the journey back to Newark was slow – having a dog-friendly taxi had saved us at least an hour on our journey home.

The weather slowly improved with every mile that we traveled south as we moved away from the weather front that was to dump two month’s worth of rain over Lincolnshire over the next two days…

 

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The Odyssey 2019: Day 7b

Posted by alexgreyauthor on 3 August, 2019

A beautiful morning after yesterday’s storm -waiting at Newark Nether Lock

Newark to Southrey (River Witham)

Sunday 9th June

By Sunday morning the storm had blown over and we were greeted by a crystal blue sky and brilliant sunshine. We set off early, hoping get through Cromwell Lock onto the Tidal Trent as early as possible. We’d been in touch with the lock keeper during the week to check the tide times, but after the week’s rainfall, especially yesterday’s storm, there was 4′ of fresh water coming downriver and we could basically transit the tideway whenever we wanted!

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Muskham Ferry – the pontoons still look short and precarious!

However we had a blip – we knew from the radio chatter yesterday that Newark Nether Lock had a problem, but the news was that one gate was operational so we’d be fine. However, the issue with one lock gate meant that the “self-service” function was blocked by the clever electronics so our early start was wasted. We got in touch with Cromwell Lock to warn them we’d be late and set about reporting the ongoing fault. I have to say that the lock is very picturesque, so there are worse places to wait, especially when you have a fine latte and a Danish pastry in hand. We didn’t have to wait long, a van full of engineers turned up and they helped us to get the lock ready and started letting us down; the lock-keeper turned up shortly after and were soon through, all be it through the one functioning gate.

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Saffy diligently reading the charts on the Tidal Trent…

We dashed down to Cromwell, waving to the moorings at Muskham Ferry, where we’d spend a memorably precarious night the last time we came this way. We met another of our convoy compatriots at Cromwell, old friends nb Flora Dora, who’d overnighted on the fine lock landings. We locked down together then had a glorious cruise down the tideway. We were very careful to follow the navigation notes, though the sheer volume of fresh coming downriver meant that we were highly unlikely to run aground. The fresh water coming off the river was flowing fast enough to negate the flow of the incoming tide, so we flew downriver and arrived in Torksey way before they had enough water over the cill to let us in.

We moored up and took the hounds for a mooch – there is a lovely walk along the embankment high above the river. We got a real feel for the flow of fresh water when a widebeam that had left the Torksey moorings heading for Cromwell was barely moving aginst the flow – it was painful to watch. We went back to the boat and Flora Dora soon caught up with us and moored behind us on the pontoon. We waited – there was no rushing the tide.

IMG_1172

While Alex maintained a 360 degree watch πŸ™‚

Eventually the tide rose high enough to cover the cill and the lock keeper let us in. Getting set up in Torksey lock is a bit of a palaver, the lock keeper is meticulous in checking that the boats are properly secured. I sighed at the delay, but when he opened the paddles and I saw the fierce turbulence I was grateful that he’d taken the time to ensure that we were safe.

We left nb Flora Dora at Torksey, they were mooring there for a bit, but we wanted to cruise until dusk and make the best of the good weather – this was the only one good day in an unremittingly dreadful forecast for the week to come.

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A more unusual sight for a narrowboat…

Indigo Dream was soon on new waters – we’d cruised as far as Saxilby in 2011, but hadn’t made it to Lincoln, though we had visited the city by train. I was excited to see Lincoln by boat, but I was a little disappointed. Maybe it’s because we’ve become used to more tranquil waters, but the commercial bustle of Brayford Pool did not appeal at all. We enjoyed the transit through the Glory Hole which seems to marks the boundary between new and Old Lincoln. There are moorings beyond the Glory Hole – they are fenced off with railings with all too infrequent gates which can be opened with a BW key. They really did not appeal as the path between the boats and the railings was terribly narrow and it would have been a nightmare for maneuvering the hounds. Not that we wanted to stop today, but we squirreled the information away for the future.

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Approaching Lincoln’s famour Glory Hole

Stamp End lock came as a surprise – it is a guillotine lock which, from upstream, is virtually invisible – only a small strip and two yellow markers about the size of a table tennis bat stick out above the waterline. It was very dingy when we were there – the water had abundant trash including several syringes – charming.

It seemed to take a long time to get out of Lincoln, it has a fringe of industrial units and I looked forward to getting past it’s dingy suburbs. However, when I looked back towards the city proper, I was surprised to find that the best views of the Cathedral are from this end of the Witham. In fact, the cathedral dominates the landscape for miles, the land here is so flat! The cathedral must have been so imposing for visitors (and marauders) coming up the Witham.

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Lincoln’s Catherdral dominates the landscape from the East

Once we got out into the countryside, River Witham was delightful – the sheer diversity of plant and bird life is astounding. There are regular mooring pontoons and there seemed to be plenty of space – the only exception was Kirkstead, but we didn’t make it quite that far. We did have a quick pitstop for the hounds at Washingborough; the moorings here are lovely, surrounded by beautiful countryside and flanked by a very fine house. It was a converted train station, as we found out later. The river must have felt very different when there was a railway on its banks. At this point it was too early to stop cruising, but it would have been a delightful place to spend the night, though we’d have had no rest if Saffy and Alex had spotted the station house cat prowling around.

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Delightful moorings at Washingborough

There are few locks on this section, so Bardney came as both a surprise and a welcome feature! There are visitor moorings above the lock and also some lockside services. I’ll just make a note here that when I picked Richard up from the lock landing below the lock, there was a BIG step down onto the boat – I’ll tell you why this is interesting when we get to Day 8!

By now, late afternoon was beginning to melt into early evening, with the westering sun providing plenty of light for cruising; but the reflections on the syrup smooth waters were a gateway to a night’s dreaming. The waterway is wide, deep and generous,Β  yet it’s just a tiny ribbon in the Ascot-worthy bonnet of the enormous skies hereabouts. It is almost impossible to think small thoughts under those big skies, almost impossible – as the level landscape rolled on our, our thoughts turned to supper and pubs!

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Below Bardney Lock – remember this view – a few days later, the lock landing was submerged by flood water!

The moorings at Bardney Village were an option, but it’s not that enticing from the waterway, the landscape being dominated by a huge sugar factory. Unlike the exotic Tate and Lyle Wharves in London and Bristol, this one processes sugar beet, a major crop in the fertile fens. We loved the look of the moorings at Fisketon; the village itself is a bit of a trek from the river, but the moorings give access to a lovely nature reserve – the greyhounds would have loved it! But it was still early so we pressed on..

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Beautiful reflections at our overnight mooring and yes, this photograph IS the right way up!

The next stop was Southrey. There are mooring pontoons on both sides of the river, looking downstream, the one on the left hand side offers access to the village, the one on the right to what we thought was a riverside pub. We rang the village pub first – they were not serving food that night, so we opted for the right hand bank. We had hoped for a pub meal, but we were surprised to find that although there are pub signs on the bank and on the side of the big white building, they are just mementos of a bygone era. The pub is now a private house!

We considered moving on the Kirkstead, but it was 7pm and it would have been quite late to eat by the time we arrived there (assuming that the pubs served food that late on a Sunday, many don’t). We moored up and I cooked on board. The absence of pubs is rarely a tragedy as there is usually at least one meal and several night’s worth of beer on board. We have enough wine, donated by generous guests, to float the boat!

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Perfect!

The moorings were so quiet, with good dog-walking along the top of the bank heading downstream. Saffy and Alex were quite tired, so we didn’t go far – just to the sluice and back (the river has lots of drains and tributaries with their attendant control mechanisms.

Note for other dog-walkers: There is a cattle grid just beyond the sluice control building – this would be a leg-breaker for a running greyhound!

We took some photos of the beautiful sunset, admiring the reflections on the broad, deep waters. It had been an epic day, but we were a bit sorry that it had come to an end. We couldn’t have anticipated that we wouldn’t see the sun again for the best part of a fortnight!

Photoblog:

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A rare landmark on the Trent upstream of Muskham Ferry

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Alex and Saffy taking the tidal water in their stride

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Saxilby – beyond this point we were in new waters πŸ™‚

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Brayford Pool in Lincoln – there were plenty of visitor moorings available but we didn’t fancy the bustle of the city today (and there was great benefit to cruising further while the weather was fair).

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Take heed of these warning lights as you approach the Glory Hole…

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…Because there’s not much headroom under there!

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Luckily we had Alex on watchdog duty so we were fine!

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There were loads of visitor moorings (14 day) beyond the Glory Hole, but that path is narrow and the gates are infrequent so we didn’t like the look of them, especiallly with hounds.

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There are some wonderful sculptures on the footpath that runs alongside the Witham downstream of Lincoln

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Imagine sailing up the Witham from the Wash and seeing that powerful edifice on the horizon – Lincoln Catherdral is quite magnificent

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More wonderful sculptures

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The enormously appealing Fiskerton Fen moorings – we’d like to cruise the Witham again and spend more time in these beautiful and tranquil places

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The Odyssey 2019: Day 7a

Posted by alexgreyauthor on 31 July, 2019

Newark

Saturday 8th June

We had planned to cruise from Newark to Torksey on Saturday, but the weather forecast was atrocious, with a storm due to hit England in the afternoon, bringing with it torrential rain and 50mph winds. So we changed our plan and stayed an extra night in the marina. The Trent had been very benign, but it takes water from a huge catchment area and being exposed to a strong tidal stream during a storm would had been unpleasant at the very least.

We packed the dogs into the car on Saturday morning and had a slow drive up to the marina. We were very relieved to arrive before the main storm hit the region.

Our mission for the afternoon was to get Indigo Dream set up for a fortnight’s holiday on board, starting from next weekend, when we would be hound-free and able to travel to the boat by train. We’d loaded the car with clothes and other odds and end, like our Tidal Trent cruising guides! We made the best of the marina’s services and Richard managed to move Indigo Dream over to the service pontoon for diesel and a pump-out, then back again, between the lively gusts of wind. In the meantime, I unpacked our bags and did an inventory of our food and drink supplies. There is a Waitrose very close to the marina (just by the train station in fact) so we took the car round and filled the boat with provisions.

In the end, it took us so long to get the boat set up for an extended cruise, I’m amazed that we ever thought we’d have time to cruise today – the weather had done us a favour.

The advantage of social media over the Blog is that it is very current. We knew that Cherryl and Ian on Dutch Barge Seren Rose, were moored in Newark, so we arranged to spend an evening with them on the dog-friendly Castle Barge, a floating pub/cocktail bar which also serves plain and simple food. Although it’s walking distance, the threat of torrential rain prompted us toΒ  pile into the car and drive round – phew, it’s hard to park in Newark!

We had the most delightful evening – Cherryl and Ian used to cruise on nb Winedown and we memorably met them for the first time in Salthouse Dock in Liverpool. After a boozy afternoon on nb Wine Down with the boys from nb Chance, they decided to join our crew to cross the Mersey the following day – it was epic! That was in 2015 and a lot of water has flowed under out baseplates since then – we had some catching up to do!

We had a very merry evening, and as always, it wasn’t nearly long enough, but we were excited that Seren Rose would be following in our footsteps to Boston and then across the Wash to the Fens. This means that our paths are highly likely to cross again over the Summer.

 

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The Odyssey 2019: Day 6

Posted by alexgreyauthor on 29 July, 2019

Nottingham to Newark

Monday 3rd June

Setting out from the Nottingham steps

All four convoy boats were planning to cruise downsteam so we made a rough plan to travel together and share the capacious locks on the River Trent. We set off bright and early (by our standards) and managed to fight the wind to get off our moorings and turn downstream with the minimum of fuss. Indigo Dream was in her element, she has a very sweet trinity of engine, propellor and gearbox, and after a service she was delighted to stride out into deep water. We flew downriver, enjoying the lush countryside views. There is a navigator’s guide to the non-tidal Trent – sadly we’d left our copy at home (!) but obstructions and channels are well signposted and it is possible to navigate without the guidesΒ  if you apply a bit of common sense about avoiding the inside of bends (where it can be very shallow indeed).

I know that some boaters find the Trent boring, but I love it; the landscape is rich and beautiful. There are few settlements along its banks, so it feels as if we’re boating in nature. We have many fond memories of cruising here with Lou, Lynx and Ty; back then, we took our time and stopped at Fiskerton for some splendid dog-walking, pub food and a slobber over Dutch Barge Joni, that was just being fitted out. But today we were on a mission to get to Newark.

Trent Bridge Cricket ground…

The lock keepers on the Trent are very organised, with each one radio-ing the next to let them know that our little convoy was coming. We also practiced our VHF technique, which does tend to get rusty when we’re just bimbling along remote canals. The lock-keepers were also very solicitous of our safety – the locks are enormous and swallowed our little convoy whole.

The river was very quiet, with a few boats coming upstream. However as we approached Newark, on the narrow bit, of course, we were stalked by a big tug travelling downstream. We all made room for it to pass – never argue with a boat that’s powerful enough to push the entire St Pancras Cruising Club, clubhouse and all, into the water! Again, we listening out on the VHF and knew that we’d be sharing Newark Lock with the tug – forewarned is forearmed!

Kings Marina is at the far end of Newark, so we had a good view of the town’s moorings. There was ample room on the walls, and one precious space on the pontoon (left hand side looking downstream). We’ve never seen a space there before (ok, we’ve only been here twice!) and were a bit sad that we couldn’t take advantage of it just on principle! Indigo Dream, Coracle and Mobius turned into the marina, but we waved goodbye to nb Scholar Gypsy who was carrying on to Cromwell Lock.

Room to spare in the locks on the Trent…

Kings Marina is closed on Monday, but we’d made arrangements to meet the manager at 5pm-ish. As it happened, we’d flown from Loughborough and arrived nearer 2pm. We were prepared to wait on the service pontoon (where he’d told us to hang out), but some super-friendly residents pointed out an empty space and gave us a gate key that an outgoing boater had left with them. The downside of the marina is that you can get in and out by boat easily enough, but the site is gated and only key holders can get in and out on foot/by car. It was a relief to get moored up – the wind had been very brisk all day, making for some tricky manouevering off lock moorings (the wind was handy for pushing us onto moorings but less handy for pushing off!).

We mused about getting the car, but the marina is very close to Newark Castle train station which has a good train to Loughborough. Now Saffy has been on trains before but I never thought that Alex, having come to us so traumatised, would ever manage. Nonethless, if we minimised the amount of stuff that we needed to carry home and got the dogs onto the train, it would save us over an hour on the journey home.

One of the few bridges across the Trent

We mooched over to the station and had a little wait, which allowed the dogs to get used to the idea. We had their sheepskin rugs, and Alex was happy to curl up on his temporary safe place. He doesn’t like crowds, so he jumped onto the train with no fuss and found himself a space under a table. Saffy was not so keen – it’s just as well that she was with Richard, who could lift her on board. Both hounds settled well, though the train got a bit crowded in Nottingham. We got them off the train with very little fuss at Loughborough. I was so relieved that Alex’ first train trip had gone so smoothly as it’s a useful backup.

Richard’s car was just yards form the station entrance – Alex and Saffy were so happy to see it. By greyhound standards they’d had an exhausting weekend, having assiduously left wee mails in Bath, Loughborough, Nottingham, Newark and many points in-between. Luckily, we had packed their favourite beds into the boot for their stay in the B & B, so they were travelling in some style. As soon as the car started moving they settled down and we didn’t hear a peep from them until we got home!

Photoblog:

Stoke Lock showing the strange proprotions of a lock on a river which can rise much, much higher

Typical view of the rural, remote and broad River Trent.

Saffy enjoyng the view

More rural scenes – this high bank is an oddity in a landscape that’s getting flatter and flatter as we approach Lincolnshire

This insect hitched a lift – we’ve seen a few of them this summer – I think it’s a fairy longhorn moth

Ooh, spaces at Fiskerton – this is a good place to moor if you have hounds and like pub grub!

Great view of the castle from Newark Town Lock – it’s big enough for the tug and for our convoy.

Alex hiding but otherwise calm πŸ˜‰

Saffy kept out of the way too – but she refused to sit with us!

Travelling in style – the last leg of our round Britain weekend :-p

 

 

 

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The Odyssey 2019: Day 5

Posted by alexgreyauthor on 28 July, 2019

Loughborough to Nottingham

Sunday 2nd June

This was a crazy busy weekend where we managed to travel a huge 500 mile ring by car, boat and train!

Scenic walk round the grounds of Toghill House Farm – super hound-friendly B & B

Late on Friday night we drove down to the outskirts of Bath, here we were due to attend a wedding on Saturday afternoon. I’ll give a shout out here to a lovely dog-friendly B & B – Toghill House Farm. We booked at the last minute, so we had to take their last room, which was a charming but tiny twin room with just enough room for us, Saffy and Alex. We knew we’d come to the right place when we met the resident dogs- a big hairy lurcher called Ralphy and a little whippet called Ferris – perfect. The beds were soft and springy so it was inevitable that Saffy would be the one who discovered tandem trampolining as she bounced from bed to bed – it was by far the quickest way to get around as there was very little floor space for walking!

The following morning we had a fine cooked breakfast, with quality control provided by Ralphy, who took the job very seriously. A lot of so-called “dog friendly” establishments do not allow you to leave your dogs unattended in the room, which is very restrictive. However, the owners of Toghill House Farm were very relaxed when we had to leave the hounds in the room while we went to the wedding. We took the hounds for a long (by their standards) walk around the farm’s abundant footpaths first thing – this wore them out! Although we always worry about leaving them for extended periods of time, it was obvious, when we got back from the wedding, that they had been fast asleep all afternoon. I had worried that they would be too hot in the tiny room, but the farm is on a high hill with commanding views over the Avon valley far below- this meant that a cool breeze kept the dogs more comfortable than we were in the sunshine of the luxurious wedding venue and its extensive gardens. We had thought to drive up to the boat in the evening, but we made the best of the room booking (we booked two nights so that we could leave the dogs there in the afternoon). The Farm is by a surprisingly busy B road, so traffic noise was an issue at times when the local contractors were moving combine harvesters and giant tractors around the countryside. It also meant that we were super-careful with the hounds on leads, they’d have no chance if they strayed onto the road. The resident dogs had been trained from a very young age so stay within the small garden area, thought the owner said that they’d lost their previous lurcher when he ran onto the road – a cautionary tale 😦

We saw some unusual craft today..

Anyway, bright and early on Sunday morning we headed off to Loughborough, arriving at the boat around 10.30am. The engineer had been very busy indeed and Indigo Dream was in very fine form having had:

  • an engine service
  • new fanbelts
  • additional bilge pump fitted
  • Vetus seal slipped out for inspection and replaced slightly moved to avoid a slight lip.

Richard took the car off to train station- the parking’s very reasonable and it would be extremely convenient for the trip home. He took his bike with him so that he could make a speedy return to the boat. In the meantime, I cast off and headed towards the River Soar. The first lock was a lot closer than I’d anticipated, but luckily there are lock landings on both sides. This meant that I could take the easy option of mooring where the lively wind wanted to put me. This was on an enclosed offside mooring so I didn’t have to worry about the hounds escaping while I went to set the lock. I had just opened the gate when a boat approached from Loughborough Basin. The lady of the boat was lovely and offered to do the winding while I brought Indigo Dream in and shut the gate behind me. Sometimes you just get lucky with the right locking partners at the right time! We were barely halfway down when Richard arrived on his bike.

I’m always amazed at how they fit a steam engine into such a small craft…

We shared the next few locks with them – they were on their was to the Erewash to have something nasty detangled from their bow thruster tube, but sadly for us, they intended to moor up early that day. Never mind, we soon picked up another locking partner who kept us company for a few locks. The canal/river was much busier than we’ expected, with a nice flow of upstream boats to keep the locks set our way.

I had forgotten how rural the River Soar is – there were several opportunities for Saffy and Alex to get off for a run around the locks. They are reasonably reliable on the towpath where there’s nowhere for Saffy to scarper and where Alex can run back to his safe place on the boat when he’s burnt off a little nervous energy. I have very fond memories of cruising this was with Lou and Lynx, who had excellent recall (sometimes!) and who had some splendid rummages along this stretch.

We had a debate in Kegworth Deep Lock as to whether a pair of boats would need to rope up, but the CRT signs are pretty emphatic and there have been cillings there. I recalled how turbulent this lock had been on the way up in 2011, so I roped up, but we locked down very smoothly and I needn’t have worried.

nb Stalwart, who have three greyhounds on board – not that any of our hounds were visible – it was raining!

We had a funny encounter at Redhill Lock. An upcoming boat crew asked us whether we’d been on the Chesterfield Canal. We were a bit bemused, we have been there but it was back in 2011! It turns out that they have three greyhounds on board and they remembered meeting us on the Chesterfield one the day that we had eight on board. Well, I guess that it was quite a memorable number πŸ˜€

The afternoon’s cruise had been marred by intermittent showers, a very brisk wind and a real chill in the air – such a contrast to the lovely weather we’d enjoyed on the Saturday. Nonetheless, we were keen to press on to Nottingham so that we would have an easier day on Monday. Our target for the weekend was Kings Marina in Newark, where we’d booked a week’s mooring.

We were just going through Trent lock when we heard a squawk on the VHF – we’ve been keeping it tuned to the ship-to-ship channel that the St Pancras Cruising Club had set for this particular convoy. An old friend, Simon on nb Scholar Gypsy, was just single-handing along the Erewash and was less than half an hour behind us. We waited for him at Cranfleet Lock (after he had a weed hatch work-out) and then had a convivial cruise into Nottingham aided by communication with other members of the convoy who were already moored at Nottingham’s town steps. Although we were in good company, I had a major sense of humour failure by the time we got to Meadow Lane Lock – I find the canal through Nottingham really dreary, and I was cold, damp and thoroughly fed up with fighting with the wind.

Nonetheless, Indigo Dream and Scholar Gypsy cruised triumphantly side by side under Trent Bridge to join nb Coracle and Mobius. Luckily, the wind was actually blowing in our favour, so I was able to moor up neatly – always essential when there’s an audience of fellow boaters!

Despite being near the famous cricket ground, there are very few amenities within “tired boater” walk of the moorings; thank heavens for Weatherspoons is all I can say. We trooped off for some simple pub grub and enjoyed catching up with the St Pancras boat crews. We’d been keeping in touch via Whatsapp, social media and, when in range, the VHF radio, but you can’t beat having a drink with old friends.

Photoblog:

The beds at the B & B were very bouncy and Saffy soon got the hang of trampolining between them!

Ralphy, Toghill House Farm’s resident lurcher – he was very well-behaved and didn’t beg at the breakfast table, though he was happy to take a piece of sausage in the hallway (with his owner’s permission) πŸ™‚

Ferris the resident whippet was also available for sausage quality control

The farm walks include a wooded section, whch was nicely shady on a warm day.

The only available room was a twin – Alex was happy to sleep on the floor in the doughnut bed we brought from home but Saffy insisted on proving that a single bed was big enough for two provided I tucked up small in a corner…:-)

The mooring pontoons at Redhill on Soar are scarily askew…

Another unusual design.

Be sure to head left for the channel to Nottingham – luckily the flow over the weir was tame and the sprightly wind wanted to take me in that direction today!

Old friend nb Scholar Gypsy caught up with us in Nottingham – by Sunday we had ourselves a convoy of four boats πŸ™‚

The arch hides a mooring under the old Fellows, Morton & Clayton building – I thought there were boats in there but I’m not sure how you access them. On a day like today, the idea of a dry mooring within easy reach of the pub was very appealing πŸ™‚

Might be a bit tight on headroom!

The old BW building imposes its will on the waterway πŸ™‚

 

 

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The Odyssey 2019: Day 4

Posted by alexgreyauthor on 26 July, 2019

Monday 27th May

Leicester to Loughborough

Fair bit of dereliction on the way out of Leicester…

We set off bright and early (by our standards!) and enjoyed a good trip through Leicester, which has come up in the world since we were last here in 2014. There were several new mooring sites and now that we know about them, we’ll explore them next time we’re in the city.

There was a LOT of trash in the water by Belgrave Lock – I’m not sure why, we speculated that it might be the flow from the river and the adjacent weir. It was a shame as the rest of the city’s water had been pretty clean.

The exit from Leicester is quite abrupt –Β  a litle way past Belgrave Lock, we joined a bendy river section surrounded by waterparks and meads. I remember coming the other way in 2014 and the transition from bucolic river to trashy city was unwelcome; it works much better going the other way!

There are regular locks, though there was very little traffic on the river. The one exception was at Cossington Lock, where there was a little queue. We met another boating friend there, Maggie from nb Forever Young. Although we follow each other on social media, it was still a lovely surpirse to see her. We couldn’t linger – we were on a schedule and it hard started to rain, hard! It as one of those waterproofs on, waterproofs off sort of day, with

Though some of the buildings have kept their original facades/features

the weather changing at a moment’s notice so that we never seemed to be wearing the right clothes at the right time. The wind remained troublesome, but the river itself was passive which was a relief The Soar is a moody old river which requires very little provocation to go into flood.

Do keep a keen watch on the meandering river sections – I was surprised to find two pedal bikes mounted on canoe floats cheerfully pedaling upstream on the wrong side of the river. There is a base nearby which hires them out – we were lucky to only meet two!

I think we were both a bit anxious to get on – we had a target for the weekend and the prospect of a long drive home afterwards. I had a cunning plan for retrieving my car and was pleased to see two volockies at Barrow Deep Lock, which meant that I could leave Richard to it and head off to the train station. It was a bit further than I thought, and access to the station from the canal was a bit more convoluted that I expected, nonetheless, I was just in time to catch the hourly train back to Leicester and the local connection to Market Harborough. It was then a cheap cab ride back to the car at North Kilworth Wharf.

I arrived in Loughborough a whisker after Richard had moored up – perfect timing! He’d moored on the 14-day towpath moorings to the right of the junction (turn left for Loughborough Wharf and the short-term, but secure moorings). This was exactly where she needed to be for the engineer, so we’d accomplished our goal for the weekend. As always, we found it hard to leave the boat, but we were soon packed up and on our way.

Photoblog:

Attractive new mooring pontoons away from the bustle of the city centre

This old brick chimney had a “crown” supporting several cables that were anchoored to the ground – they didnt look like structural supports so we don’t know what they’re for – interesting!

Squirrels!

Another new mooring facility in a short arm above Lime Kiln Lock

A very confident heron keeping an eye on our locking technique – he stayed nearby for the whole show πŸ™‚

Shiny new mooring rings above Belgrave lock – Leicester now has a fine choice of new moorings…

National Space Centre – such an incongruous sight.

Below Belgrave Lock you’re suddenly out of the city and back to the green as the river passes through the Watermead Country Park

The meandering River Soar…

A very stern gongoozler…

Threatening skies…

 

 

 

 

 

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